Pietrasanta dining: A tavola da Filippo!
We enjoyed a meal prepared specially for us at Filippo, a gem of a restaurant close to the main cathedral of Pietrasanta. Cover image by Jen Adams.
About Filippo, by Emily Kundert…
Nestled amongst the small shops and giant cathedrals of Pietrasanta, a hillside town that can be reached also by bike, is a tiny family-owned restaurant called Filippo just steps from the Duomo. There is no big sign with lights advertising the place, only discrete information painted on the modern and elegant shutters surrounding the door. So look carefully if you wish to find it. Upon your discovery you will immediately become enchanted – with the people, the setting, and the food. At Filippo it is common for the owner of the restaurant to be present, not just sitting in an office off the kitchen but out in the restaurant interacting with the crowd. He is a proud man who has no greater love than sharing stories about the food he serves. If you enjoy sitting outside while you eat, you will especially love Filippo. Tables are set right outside the restaurant directly on the street. It is a great opportunity for people watching – a must-do activity in Pietrasanta. If you prefer indoor dining you will be taken aback by the beautiful contemporary art that surrounds the walls of the small and intimate space. But it is the food that truly makes Filippo such a wonderful place. The dishes are a blend of traditional northern Tuscan and family refined recipes – each one different than the last. Their menu changes daily, usually circling around 7 varied dishes, so you’re guaranteed the best food possible. Info: Filippo is open for a full menu lunch Tuesdays through Fridays and an a la carte dinner Saturdays and Sundays so plan your upcoming visit accordingly. Via Stagio Stagi, 22. Phone number 0584 70010.
Filippo’s flavors, tasted and described by Jen Adams…
When I think of eating in Italy I think of family recipes and generations of relatives sharing great memories over their meals, the same sauce, the same bread, the same experience. If you are feeling similar and to be part of this family I would suggest making the trip to Ristorante Filippo in Pietrasantra. Filippo himself will be there to greet you and explain the taste and love that goes into the food. You may be able to peak in at his mother in the kitchen as she whips and stirs and sprinkles her way through the kitchen. We started with the antipasti which combined tastes and sensations that went together like twins. A salty cod croquette combined with meatballs and a flan asparagus otherwise known as flan di asparagi con salsa al parmigiano. I normally do not like the texture of asparagus but the parmigiano blended into the flan made me wanting a second piece because it filled my mouth with pleasure. On to the primo piatto with had the area’s version of tortelli, which are called tordelli here. This was filled with a rag meat sauce that sang the minute it hit your taste buds. Filippo explained how this was his mother’s recipe and had been handed down for many generations. The look of pride on his face made the taste of the tordelli that much more enjoyable, a true delicacy. I knew that we would not find another tordelli like this in all of Italy so I savored every bite. Onto the secondo piatto of roast suckling pig with roast potatoes. The combination of the salt from the roasted potatoes and the tenderness of the pork were sure to please my palate much like the sip of Chianti, produced near Florence, that followed. The other wines from nearby Lucca were a perfect accompaniment to the flavors of the meal. I would definitely ask Filippo what wine he would suggest as he is so passionate about the entire experience of a meal in his restaurant. The encore of the meal was the sweet torta fondente al cioccolao which literally melts in your mouth. You want to eat this chocolate cake slowly as to savor the moment that the chocolate explodes in your mouth. Be sure to enjoy the entire experience while sitting outside. It will be like watching the movie of the town’s people unfold. The soundtrack of their voices and laughter makes your meal a symphony of music. Remember to arrive hungry and be prepared for a delightful experience.