Baccalà at the Beard House? Bello!
It’s day two and the students of Apicius International School of Hospitality are busy away planning for their annual Tuscan food and wine themed event, TuttoToscana, which takes place at the James Beard House in New York City, October 22-25. Fortunately for me, I happen to be one of those lucky students!
Having signed up for the special events management program, I was quite excited when I learned that I could attend one of the culinary prep classes as an observer, in hopes of finding inspiration for this blog. As I walked into class, I was surprised that my first culinary teaching in Italy was on baccalà, a fish I never really associated with traditional Tuscan cuisine. My original hope was a lesson on some type of pasta variation, or maybe bistecca alla fiorentina, the typical beefsteak indicative of Tuscany. But again, this is prep for TuttoToscana, an event that seeks to identify the traditions of Tuscan cuisine beyond that of the American stereotype.
For example, baccalà isn’t typically known as the most elegant of fish, or the most exciting. Historically, it was a fish purchased mostly by the poor, as it was inexpensive, kept well and could be prepared many different ways.
As the class went on, and I understood the history of the region and the fish, I realized baccalà is just as representative of Tuscan cuisine as is pasta.
To explain further, let’s start with Chef’s approach, which is defined by three different preparations, textures and temperatures, all of which feature traditional Tuscan recipes noted throughout the region.
The first, which stole my heart at first taste, was the modern take on baccalà, prepared as a foam. I consider myself an adventurist eater, however, cod foam was a definite unknown to me. . After seeing its transformation from filet to foam, I was quite impressed. This was the start of my baccalà transformation, and my appreciation for the art of Tuscan cuisine from its simplest to most complex form.
Next was Chef’s version of baccalà carpaccio, which in my opinion, is like the Italian take on great sushi.. and a good one I might add. Served raw and at room temperature, it was absolutely amazing.
The last preparation and the most traditional take on baccalà was a battered and deep fried version. And to my surprise, a much tastier and vibrant dish that had no trace of the fish and chips style of cod from my childhood.
Now, if you have any doubt about Baccala’; its quality, tastes and possibilities, then you must experience the Tuscan evolution of this common, but innovative fish, which exemplifies baccalà at its finest.
– Kimberly Polito, Special Event Management Team
Portrait by ©Nadia Bseiso 2010, all rights reserved
Photo by: ©Pilee Blue Mansfield 2010, all right reserved